Handyman Skills

Everyone Should Have These 10 Handyman Skills. We understand why you might prefer to leave the heavy handyman work – significant electrical repair, deep plumbing, anything to do with a septic tank – to the professionals.

A man, on the other hand, should know his way around a toolbox. Even whether you live in an apartment or a condo, it’s critical to be able to take care of the essentials on your own.

Furthermore, if you’ve been contacting a plumber every time your sink clogs, you’re wasting money.

Men used to learn a lot of fundamental carpentry, plumbing, electricity, and other maintenance skills from their fathers as a matter of course, but for those of you who didn’t, here are 20 talents any guy should have in order to be the ruler of his own castle.

1. Locate a stud

Studfinders, the tool that inspired a thousand jokes, aren’t cheap, so why rely on a device when you can find the stud yourself? Studs are the vertical beams that support walls and are used to place decorations, television screens, and anchor heavy furniture. On both sides of each window, as well as beside electrical boxes for switches and outlets, there should be a stud. Another clue is to search for any nails hammered into the moulding, as they are normally driven into the stud. Studs are typically spaced every 16 to 24 inches around the room, so once you’ve found one, measure the others. To find out where the studs are, use the following method: When you tap the wall, it will mainly sound hollow, but where there is a stud, it will sound much denser.

2. Use a bookcase as a wall anchor

Now that you’ve located a stud, it’s time to put it to work. Heavy independent objects, such as bookcases, should be fastened to the wall to prevent it from collapsing due to a seismic event, a domestic mishap, or a super-athletic bout of sex.

To begin, locate the studs in the wall where you want your bookcase to be anchored. There are a few options depending on the type of bookcase you’re anchoring and how much damage you’re ready to accept. If the bookshelf has no back, you’re in luck: Simply measure and space two L-brackets at least 24 inches apart, one of which must be on a stud. Mark the drill holes on the wall and the shelf with a pencil; hammer or drill a pilot hole in the designated areas; and then screw the L-bracket to the shelf’s side or underside as well as the wall.

For a bookcase with a back, measure the width of the case’s shelves minus the frame, then cut a 1×6 piece of lumber to fit. Drill two or three pilot holes at the height of the top shelf of the case, making sure at least one of them goes into a stud. Place the lumber and drill a second set of pilot holes so that the holes in the timber match up with the holes in the walls. Then, using screws long enough to pass through the board, drywall, and into the wall stud, fasten the board to the wall. Finally, attach two L-brackets to the book’s underside. Return the bookshelf to its original location and fasten the brackets to the mounted piece of lumber.

3. Fill a hole or scuff with spackle

The unattractive holes and bumps that emerge from shifting or removing your wall art can ruin your man cave. Make it a practice to keep spackle, a putty knife, and paint on hand to keep your pad looking nice. Clean up any loose fragments or anything that sticks out from the hole you’re trying to repair first. Spread a thin, smooth coating of spackle over the hole using the putty knife, pushing hard to lay a thin, even layer – spackle shrinks, so a little excess over the hole is fine. Allow it to dry for a few hours, and then reapply if necessary. Place a second layer on top of the first. Paint over the damaged area after smoothing the spackle with fine-grade sandpaper until it’s flat with the rest of the wall.

4. Replace a missing tile

Broken tiles are preceded by loose or wobbling tiles, thus this is a minor issue worth addressing before it becomes a serious one. To release the tile’s glue, first run a hot iron over it and the surrounding region, then gently lift it out. To remove all of the old adhesive, wipe the area underneath with alcohol and then scrape it clean with the putty knife. Replace the tile with care after applying a fresh coat of tile glue to the gap and the back of the tile. Roll the tile into place and remove any air bubbles with a rolling pin, then wipe away any excess glue on or around the tile. If you’re looking for a unique way to express yourself, this is the place to Weigh down the floor tile using a heavy object, such as a stack of books, until the bond sets.

5. Use caulk to seal a shower, sink, or tub

This one is almost enjoyable. It may be time to replace the caulking – that line of putty or gel at the seam where the basin meets the wall or floor – if you notice some leakage around your sink, shower, or bathtub. Because caulking loses its effectiveness over time, it should be resealed at least once a year.

Scrape out the old caulking with a plastic putty knife first, then wipe the surface with rubbing alcohol. Apply a strip of masking tape above and below the area where you’ll be applying your caulk to ensure a clean, even line. Take your tube of caulk – there are many types, but one containing silicone will provide superior mildew protection – and load it into the caulking gun, following the package guidelines to cut open the application tip and puncture through any secondary layer of packing within.

Move the caulking gun smoothly along the seam you want to fix while equally depressing the trigger. After applying the caulk, smooth and flatten the line with your finger, removing any extra caulk before peeling off the masking tape. Allow at least a day or two for the caulking to dry before exposing it to water or moisture.

6. Repair a dripping faucet

The specifics vary depending on the model, but the fundamentals remain the same: In the end, replacing a worn-out or damaged washer, O-ring, or stem is almost always the best remedy. The procedures below can help you discover the issue, but before replacing any broken parts, make sure you match the size exactly.

Turn off the water at both the faucets and the mainline, which is normally a little valve connecting to the pipes under your sink. Next, gently remove the knob handle(s) with your flat-head screwdriver; lubricate with a little penetrating oil if it feels too tight to fall off easily. With a wrench, loosen the packing nut. This should allow you to identify the stem, which you can then remove and inspect for damage. Replace the O-ring and washer as well, as one of these three components is most likely the blame. Replace any broken parts, then reassemble the faucet in the same order as before – washer and O-ring, stem, packing nut, screw, handle – reinstall the handle, turn on the water, and test the water.

If the leak persists, you’ve done everything you can. The issue is more serious, and it’s time to call a plumber.

7. Clear a clogged drain

You have a few alternatives here, depending on the severity of the clog. To begin, pour a mixture of vinegar, hot water, and baking soda down the drain; a few good glugs should eliminate any soft blockages like as grease or product. If that doesn’t work, move on to the plunger – not the one you use to flush your toilet, dude; you deserve better. Half-fill the sink with water, then plunge the drain like a toilet, pumping the rubber part to produce suction.

Is your drain still clogged? Look for the trap. Place a bucket beneath your pipes and unscrew the trap – the curved section of pipe that links your sink to the vertical pipe – either by hand or with a screwdriver. Alternatively, you can use a pipe wrench or do it by hand. Drain the water and clear any obstructions before replacing the trap, reconnecting the other pipes, and running some water to determine if the drain is clear. If it doesn’t work, then…

8. Drain snaking

No, it isn’t glamorous, but you have to get that filth out of there. A drain auger, a coiled spiral tool that pulls or drills through a deep clog, is required for this; if you don’t have one, most building centers rent both manual and electric ones.

To begin, try the drain: insert the snake’s end into the opening and spin the drum handle clockwise, sending the auger cable down the drain until resistance is felt. Continue to rotate the snake until it loses resistance, then pull it out; whatever is clogging the sink will most likely come out with it. Run water to make sure the obstruction is gone.

If it’s still blocked, the issue is most certainly more serious. Remove the horizontal pipe that connects the trap to the stub pipe in the wall, either by hand or with a pipe wrench, from beneath your sink. As before, turn the snake handle clockwise while pushing the auger deeper into the pipe, attempting to catch and remove anything that offers resistance. Retract the cable from the stub pipe and reconnect the trap and horizontal pipe once the issue has been resolved.

9. Repair a crack in the pavement

If you don’t live in an apartment, your empire (and its upkeep) may extend all the way to the driveway. Unfortunately, cracks in concrete and asphalt are a fact of life, and if left unattended, they will develop into full-fledged potholes. Fortunately, they’re simple to correct. Remove any plants or debris from the gap with a screwdriver or knife tip first, then give it a once-over with the garden hose to blast out anything deeper. Allow time for the crack to heal.

When it’s dry, fill in the cracks with crack filler until they’re flush with the rest of the surface you’re restoring, then let it dry for at least 24 hours. Apply a second application if the crack is still evident. After you’ve fixed the crack, wait one to two days before walking or driving on it to be sure it’s properly set.

10. Replace the shower head

Turn a wrench counter-clockwise to loosen the notch on the old shower head, then screw it off with your hands. Scrub any grime or residue off the old shower head stem with a rag soaked in vinegar or a little amount of alcohol. Wrap a few layers of Teflon tape around the end of the stem pipe, then smooth it out with your fingertips. Install the replacement head by hand, tightening it clockwise onto the pipe. Check for leaks by turning on the shower; if it’s still spouting, tighten the replacement shower head with a wrench, being cautious not to overtighten it.